Downtown-
Polk Street,
Van Ness Avenue
| In 1856, Polk Street,
named for the eleventh president of the United States, was the first
street in the extension of San Francisco west of Larkin Street in
what was then called the Western Addition. That broad district
is now generally considered to lie west of Van Ness Avenue, where
the spread of the 1906 fire was halted. Most of the buildings
on Polk Street were lost. The rebuilt Polk Street was its own
self-contained neighborhood, centered in Polk Gulch near the bottom
of California Street. Today, a split in the neighborhood can
still be observed a block or two south of California. To the
north, Polk Street is more prosperous. To the south is a profusion
of seedy bars mixed as always in the City with new businesses many
of whose owners are immigrants economizing on rent in exchange for
the opportunity of making big through sweat equity. The street
is home of several bookstores, many restaurants and a few hundred
boutiques. Frank
Norris' fictional McTeague, the hapless dentist, lived and practiced
on Polk Street near California Street where the California-Van Ness
cable car came down into Polk Gulch. (It still does.)
Austin Street was a one-block carriage entrance alley between and
parallel with Bush and Pine, 1-1/2 blocks south of California.
The modern street has been renamed for Norris. At least
San Francisco does honor her writers after acquiring a few of them
over the past 150 years. Charles Gough, a successful milkman
who became alderman and in the 1850s was appointed to a committee
to come up with names for the new streets in the Western Addition,
named Octavia Street for his sister.
|
Frank Norris, 1870-1902
"At the corner of Polk Street, between the flat and the car conductors'
coffee-joint, was Frenna's. It was a corner grocery; advertisements
for cheap butter and eggs, painted in green marking-ink upon wrapping
paper, stood about on the sidewalk outside. The doorway was decorated
with a huge Milwaukee beer sign. Back of the store proper was
a bar where white sand covered the floor. A few tables and chairs
were scattered here and there. The walls were hung with
gorgeously-colored tobacco advertisements and colored lithographs
of trotting horses. On the wall behind the bar was a model
of a full-rigged ship enclosed in a bottle."
Frank
Norris, McTeague: A Story of San Francisco [1899] from
Chapter 8. |
In the summer of 2002,
two used bookshops were operating just north of here. See pictures
at right for particulars.
North of California Street,
Polk Street is known for its restaurants. I shall have more to say
about the neighborhood shortly, as soon as I walk off a few meals.
|
Yet another treasure in the
Tenderloin -
California Culinary Academy,
Polk at Turk
Originally the California Hall,
called the Deutches Haus,
now designated a landmark by
City of San Francisco.
Frank Norris' own passageway
and the
view from Polk to Larkin
... but less grand than
the street Charles Gough
named for his sister Octavia.
Reasonable prices here
Lifetime Books, 1346
Polk, south of Pine. Under new management. Owner estimates
10,000+ books on shelves. Mostly hardback. Plans possible
floor space expansion in future.
Two representative prices for
near contemporary nonfiction: The San Francisco Earthquake, by
Thomas and Witts, ISBN 8128-1360-X, $10. The Making of the Atomic
Bomb, by Rhodes, ISBN 0-671-44133-7, $10.
Large inventory here
Acorn Books, 1436 Polk
St., between Pine and California. Manager estimates "over 100,000 books on shelves."
Several titles I sought in local and California
history were all here. The back wall fiction section extends from
floor to ceiling. I could not reach the top shelves standing on
a secure bookshelf ladder. Representative prices were The European
Discovery of America, by Samuel Eliot Morison. "The Northern Voyages"
(pub. 1971) $15, and "The Southern Voyages" (pub. 1974)
$30. The Story of Maps, a 1st ed. 1949 classic by Lloyd A.
Brown $30. (Dover's paperback edition is sold for $10-$15
used.) I purchased this one on impulse.
Nabokov was beyond the
grasp of many.
Acorn Books' fiction section
|